The authentic recipe for the signature dish of Roman and Lazio cooking
Introduction
Picture the decided scent of guanciale sizzling in the pan, caramelising in its own fat, while the white wine evaporates and leaves room for a deep, inviting aroma.
The colours of this dish are a hymn to simplicity: the ruby red of the San Marzano tomato sauce coating the pasta, flecked with the golden pink of the crisp guanciale and the white cloud of freshly grated Pecorino Romano.
History and Origin of the Amatriciana
The origins of pasta all'Amatriciana are rooted in the shepherding of the central Apennines, particularly around Amatrice, in the province of Rieti, in Lazio.
The recipe descends from the older «Gricia» (or «Griscia»), a pasta dressing of guanciale, pecorino and black pepper, typical of the shepherds who could keep these ingredients for a long time during transhumance.
With the arrival of the tomato from the mid-eighteenth century, the recipe evolved into the «Amatriciana» we know today, becoming a symbol of Roman and Lazio cooking.
Ingredients for the Amatriciana (4 people)
For the Amatriciana Sauce
- High-quality guanciale (diced) 300 g
- San Marzano DOP tomato passata 400 g
- Dry white wine ½ glass
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the Pasta and the Final Dressing
- Spaghetti (or bucatini) of durum wheat 320 g
- Pecorino Romano DOP (grated) 80 g
- Coarse salt for the water to taste
Nutritional Values per Serving
Equipment Needed
To make a perfect pasta all'Amatriciana you will need:
- ✓ A large non-stick or steel frying pan
- ✓ A tall pan for the pasta
- ✓ A grater
- ✓ Tongs or a fork to toss the pasta
- ✓ A colander
How to Make the Amatriciana
Brown the Guanciale
Cut the guanciale into cubes that are not too small. Put them in a cold pan, with no added fat, and turn the heat to medium-low. Let the fat render slowly, stirring now and then. The guanciale is ready when it is golden and crisp at the edges but still slightly soft in the middle. It will take about . Drain the crisp guanciale onto a plate lined with kitchen paper, leaving the fat in the pan.
Deglaze and Make the Sauce
Raise the heat to medium-high and pour the white wine into the pan with the guanciale fat. Deglaze, scraping the base to lift the golden bits, until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Lower the heat and add the San Marzano tomato passata. Simmer over a low heat for , until the sauce has thickened slightly. Season with black pepper. Do not add salt at this stage, because the guanciale and the pecorino are already salty.
Cook the Pasta
Meanwhile, bring plenty of salted water to the boil in a pan. Drop in the spaghetti and cook them for 1–2 minutes less than the time on the packet. Before draining, take out a cup of the cooking water, precious for the finish. Drain the pasta very al dente and tip it straight into the pan with the sauce, off the heat.
The Final Toss of the Amatriciana
Add the crisp guanciale you set aside and half the grated Pecorino Romano. Start tossing the pasta briskly, adding some of the reserved cooking water to help create an emulsified cream. The starch in the water and the fat of the cheese bind with the sauce, giving a velvety texture that coats the pasta perfectly. This is the secret of a masterly dish.
Wine Pairing for the Amatriciana
Let us start with an honest premise: the canonical pairing for amatriciana is Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, the Lazio red born in the same soil as the dish. We do not stock it, and if you find it, it is worth opening. From our cellar the wine closest to it — for lively acidity, measured tannin and red fruit — is Barbera d'Asti.
The Red We Recommend
Barbera d'Asti DOCG — Tenuta Vallone — The amatriciana brings four forces into play at once: the fat of the guanciale, the salt of the pecorino, the acidity of the tomato and the heat of the chilli. Barbera stands up to them all. Its acidity, among the highest of Italian grapes, speaks to the tomato rather than fighting it, and cuts the fat with every mouthful. The contained tannin is the real key: a sterner red, against the savouriness of the pecorino, would turn dry and metallic. And the ripe cherry tempers the peppery edge that a wine warm with alcohol would fan. Serve at 16 °C.
Want to know more about the grape? our guide to Barbera
The Alternative from Home Ground
Raboso del Piave DOC — Italo Cescon — Anyone who prefers to stay in the Veneto finds the same mechanism in Raboso, with more roughness: it is the most austere red of the Marca Trevigiana, with an acidity that is almost cutting when young and works on the fat of the guanciale like a blade. Rustic tannin, morello and plum, a faintly bitter close that cleans the palate. It costs less than the Barbera and gives no ground at all on this dish. Serve at 16–18 °C.
Want to know more about the grape? our guide to Raboso del Piave
Craft Beer as an Alternative
Reckless Bock Beer — doppio malto — If you prefer beer to wine, you want a doppelbock in the dunkel bock style: the notes of caramel and dried fruit pick up the savour of the guanciale and the pecorino, the full body carries the structure of the sauce and the carbonation cuts the fat. With heat there is a rule: malt beats hops, because a pushed bitterness amplifies the burn instead of calming it. Serve at 8–10 °C, not ice cold.
Want to know more about the style? dark and doppelbock beers
Variations on the Amatriciana
- Pasta alla Gricia: simply leave out the tomato and you have the ancestral recipe of the Amatriciana.
- Gluten-free Amatriciana: use good-quality rice or maize spaghetti.
- Lactose-free: replace the pecorino with a lactose-free aged cheese.
- Spicy Amatriciana: for a peppery touch, add a whole fresh chilli while browning the guanciale and remove it before adding the tomato.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Amatriciana
Can I make the Amatriciana sauce in advance?
Yes, you can make the sauce (up to Step 2) even a day ahead. Keep it in the fridge in an airtight container and warm it gently before using. Add the crisp guanciale only when you toss the pasta, to keep its texture.
Can I replace the guanciale with pancetta in the Amatriciana?
Smoked or unsmoked pancetta is a common substitution, but it changes the character of the dish deeply. Guanciale, from the pig's cheek, has a sweeter, more aromatic flavour and a fattier, creamier texture when cooked, and it is the authentic ingredient. For the best result, use our selected Italian guanciale.
Why does my Amatriciana come out dry instead of creamy?
You probably used too little cooking water for the final toss, or added it too timidly. Do not be afraid to add cooking water a little at a time during the final toss off the heat: the starch it contains is essential for the cream that binds the sauce to the pasta.
