Pumpkin-filled tortelli wrapped in a creamy pumpkin and speck sauce, scented with butter and sage
Introduction
Autumn in Italy has a sweet, enveloping flavour: the flavour of pumpkin, undisputed queen of the season, which turns into delicate filled tortelli and creamy sauces. This dish brings together two great traditions: Emilian pumpkin tortelli, with their soft, faintly sweet filling, and the Veneto art of pairing pumpkin with speck, creating a sweet-savoury contrast that wins you over at the first taste.
The secret of this recipe lies in the double presence of pumpkin: inside the tortelli and in the dressing. The Pumpkin and Speck Sauce is an artisan preparation that captures the essence of autumn: sweet, creamy Mantuan pumpkin and crisp smoked speck from Alto Adige, all brought together in a velvety sauce that lifts without overpowering.
The History of Pumpkin Tortelli between Emilia and Veneto
Pumpkin tortelli are one of the emblematic dishes of Emilian cooking, and of Mantua and Cremona in particular. Their origin probably goes back to the Renaissance, when the noble courts experimented with sweet-savoury combinations. Pumpkin, grown in abundance on the Po plain, was matched with mostarda, amaretti and grana cheese, creating a complex and refined filling.
The spread of this dish beyond the borders of Emilia has led to interesting regional variations. In Veneto, a land of excellent pumpkins (such as the marina di Chioggia), the filling has been simplified, losing the amaretti but gaining in creaminess. Pairing it with speck, on the other hand, is typical of the mountain areas of Trentino-Alto Adige, where the tradition of curing meat merges with the produce of the garden.
Sage, with its balsamic and faintly bitter notes, completes this picture of flavours. It is no accident that throughout northern Italy butter and sage is the classic dressing for filled pasta: sage «cleans» the palate of the richness of butter and cheese, preparing it for the next mouthful. In this recipe, its role is essential in balancing the sweetness of the pumpkin and the savouriness of the speck.
Ingredients for Pumpkin Tortelli (4 people)
Pasta and Dressing
- Fresh pumpkin tortelli 400 g
- Pumpkin and Speck Sauce 1 jar
- Good-quality butter 80 g
- Fresh sage 8-10 leaves
To Finish
- Grated Parmigiano Reggiano 50 g
- Coarse salt for the pasta to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Nutmeg (optional) to taste
Nutritional Values per Serving
Equipment Needed
To make perfect pumpkin tortelli with speck sauce and sage you will need:
- ✓ A roomy, wide pot for cooking the tortelli
- ✓ A wide pan (Ø 28-30 cm) for the dressing
- ✓ A slotted spoon or skimmer for lifting out the tortelli
- ✓ A wooden spoon for gentle stirring
- ✓ A grater for the parmigiano
How to Make Pumpkin Tortelli
Preparing the Ingredients
Take the Pumpkin and Speck Sauce out of the fridge at least 20 minutes before you start: at room temperature it will blend better with the butter. Rinse the sage leaves under cold running water and pat them dry gently with kitchen paper. Grate the Parmigiano Reggiano finely. If you are using fresh tortelli, take them out of the fridge 15 minutes before cooking.
Cooking the Tortelli
Bring plenty of salted water to the boil in a wide pot (the tortelli need room so they do not stick). When the water is boiling vigorously, slip in the pumpkin tortelli gently and stir at once with a wooden spoon. Cook for the time on the packet: fresh tortelli generally need , dried ones . The pasta is ready when it rises to the surface and is «al dente».
Making the Butter and Sage Dressing
In a wide pan, put the butter and the sage leaves. Turn the heat to its lowest and let the butter melt very slowly, turning it now and then with a wooden spoon. When the butter has melted completely and begins to release the scent of the sage (after about 3-4 minutes), pour in the pumpkin and speck sauce. Warm for another over a very gentle heat, stirring to bring it together. Never let the sauce boil: excessive heat could split the ingredients.
Tossing and Serving
Lift the tortelli out with a slotted spoon or skimmer, keeping half a ladle of cooking water. Tip them straight into the pan with the sauce. Turn off the heat and toss gently for about a minute, taking care not to break the tortelli. Add the cooking water a little at a time if the sauce is too thick. Serve at once on warm plates, finishing with grated Parmigiano Reggiano, a grind of fresh black pepper and, if you like, a dusting of nutmeg to lift the sweetness of the pumpkin.
Wine Pairing for Pumpkin Tortelli
Pumpkin tortelli are a sweet dish disguised as a pasta course, and butter with sage adds fat and a herbal scent. The speck brings salt and smoke. A neutral white has nothing to say here: what is needed is a wine with serious aromatic luggage and a softness that goes along with the pumpkin.
The White We Recommend
Traminer Aromatico — Italo Cescon — Rose, lychee, sweet spice: the Traminer has the right perfume for a filling of pumpkin and amaretto, and the softness to accompany its sweetness rather than fight it. Its aromatic intensity is such that it stands up to the smoke of the speck, where a shyer white would be wiped out. Serve at 12 °C: any colder and you would lose the very scents you chose it for.
If the Table Drinks Red
Merlot Veneto I.G.T. — Italo Cescon — It is the speck that calls for red, not the pumpkin: ripe plum and soft tannin get along with smoked meat, and the roundness of the Merlot avoids the clash with the sweet filling that a nervy red would create. Serve at 16 °C.
Want to know more about the grape? our guide to Veneto Merlot
Craft Beer as an Alternative
Reckless Bock Beer — doppio malto — The caramel of the malt carries on the sweetness of the pumpkin and gathers up the smoke of the speck, while the full body stands up to the melted butter. It is the most autumnal of the three pairings, the one for a laid table. Serve at 8-10 °C.
Want to know more about the style? dark and doppelbock beers
Finish with Something Crisp
Rosemary Crackers: The Finishing Touch
To round off the tasting experience and add a pleasing crunch, serve this dish with Yeast-free Crackers with Rosemary. These artisan crackers offer several advantages alongside pumpkin tortelli:
- ✓ Contrast of texture: their crumbliness contrasts pleasingly with the softness of the tortelli
- ✓ Complementary aroma: the rosemary speaks beautifully to the sage and completes the aromatic bouquet
- ✓ Cleaning the palate: perfect for gathering the last drop of creamy sauce from the plate
- ✓ Versatility: ideal alongside the recommended wine or beer too
- ✓ Yeast-free: lighter and more digestible, they do not interfere with the delicate flavours of the pumpkin
How to serve them: Arrange them in a wicker basket after warming them lightly in the oven for 2-3 minutes at 180°C, to lift their fragrance and release the aromas of the rosemary.
Variations on Pumpkin Tortelli
- Traditional Mantuan style: Add crushed amaretti and fruit mostarda to the filling for the classic Mantuan version.
- With gorgonzola: Replace the parmigiano with mild gorgonzola for a more marked sweet-sharp contrast.
- With walnuts and brown butter: Finish the dish with chopped walnuts and butter lightly browned (beurre noisette) for toasted notes.
- Vegan: Use vegan tortelli (egg-free) and dress with extra virgin olive oil instead of butter, finishing with nutritional yeast flakes.
- In broth: Serve the pumpkin tortelli in a light meat or vegetable broth for a lighter, more wintry version.
Frequently Asked Questions about Pumpkin Tortelli
Can I freeze fresh pumpkin tortelli?
Yes, fresh tortelli freeze well. Lay them on a tray lined with baking paper, without touching one another, and put them in the freezer for 2-3 hours. Once frozen individually, transfer them to freezer bags. They keep for 2-3 months. To cook them, drop them straight into boiling water without thawing, adding 1-2 minutes to the cooking time.
How do I stop the tortelli from breaking as they cook?
Make sure the water is at a vigorous boil before you slip the tortelli in, but turn it down to medium at once afterwards. Do not stir with metal utensils: use a wooden spoon or swirl the pot gently. Do not overload the pot: the tortelli need room to float freely.
How long does pumpkin and speck sauce keep once opened?
Once opened, pumpkin and speck sauce keeps in the fridge in an airtight container for 4-5 days. Make sure to close the original jar well or transfer the sauce to an airtight container. Do not freeze the sauce once opened, because it may split.
Which kind of pumpkin is best for tortelli?
The most suitable varieties are Mantuan pumpkin (or Violina), Butternut and Delica: they have firm flesh, low in water and very sweet. The marina di Chioggia is excellent but more fibrous, so it should be passed through a sieve after cooking. Avoid ornamental pumpkins or ones that are too watery.
Can I use pancetta instead of speck?
Yes, smoked pancetta can replace speck, but the result will be different. Speck has a more delicate smoke and an ageing that makes it more savoury and fragrant. If you use pancetta, choose a high-quality one and cut it into very small cubes, browning it well before adding it to the pumpkin sauce.
