The Roman classic revisited with bronze-drawn wholewheat spaghetti made from Senatore Cappelli wheat
Introduction
Cacio e Pepe is far more than a simple plate of pasta: it is a symbol of Roman cooking, a gastronomic essence holding centuries of shepherding tradition inside its apparent simplicity. It was born as the food of shepherds during the transhumance: aged pecorino, black pepper and dried pasta, ingredients that do not spoil and that together make a symphony of flavours.
This version with bronze-drawn Wholewheat Senatore Cappelli Spaghetti is a return to origins, geographical but also qualitative. Senatore Cappelli wheat, ancestor of the modern grains, gives the pasta an intensely cereal flavour, with nutty notes that speak beautifully to the savouriness of the pecorino and the heat of toasted black pepper.
The History of Cacio e Pepe and of Senatore Cappelli Wheat
Cacio e Pepe has its roots in the cooking of the poor in the countryside of Lazio. During the long periods of transhumance, shepherds carried three non-perishable foods with them: dried pasta, aged pecorino romano (which could last months) and black peppercorns, the one spice within reach even of the humblest. As the pasta cooked in boiling water over makeshift fires, they grated the pecorino and emulsified it with the cooking water, adding coarsely ground pepper.
Senatore Cappelli wheat, named after the Abruzzese agronomist Raffaele Cappelli, is an ancient, non-hybridised durum wheat grown in Italy since the early 1900s. With the arrival of modern high-yield varieties it almost disappeared, but today it has been rediscovered thanks to the Slow Food philosophy and to the growing attention paid to ancient grains. Compared with modern wheats, Cappelli has a higher protein content, a more intense and complex flavour, and a more digestible gluten.
Pairing this wholewheat pasta with Cacio e Pepe is no accident: the rusticity of the ancient grain speaks perfectly to the strength of the pecorino and the spice of the pepper. The rough surface of the bronze-drawn spaghetti, typical of artisan production, catches the emulsion of cheese and pepper so that every mouthful is a perfect balance of flavours.
Ingredients for Cacio e Pepe (4 people)
Pasta and Base
- Wholewheat Senatore Cappelli Spaghetti 320 g
- Grated Pecorino Romano PDO 150 g
- Coarse salt for the pasta to taste
For the Aroma and the Cream
- Black peppercorns 2 heaped teaspoons
- Cooking water to taste
- Ground black pepper (to finish) to taste
Nutritional Values per Serving
Equipment Needed
To make a perfect Cacio e Pepe with wholewheat spaghetti you will need:
- ✓ A roomy pot for cooking the pasta (at least 5 litres)
- ✓ A wide steel pan (not non-stick) for the final toss
- ✓ A mortar or a pepper mill for grinding the pepper
- ✓ A metal or ceramic bowl for the pecorino cream
- ✓ A fork or whisk to emulsify the pecorino
How to Make Cacio e Pepe with Wholewheat Spaghetti
Toasting and Grinding the Black Pepper
Put the black peppercorns in a dry pan (no oil, no butter) and toast them over medium heat for , stirring constantly. When they begin to release their intense, slightly smoky aroma, take them off the heat. Tip them into a mortar and crush them coarsely: the pepper should not be powder, it should keep a certain graininess that will give pleasing bursts of flavour. If you do not have a mortar, use a pepper mill set to a coarse grind.
Cooking the Wholewheat Spaghetti
Bring plenty of lightly salted water to the boil in a roomy pot (about 1 litre per 100 g of pasta). The pecorino is already very salty, so use about half the salt you normally would. When the water is boiling vigorously, tip in the Wholewheat Senatore Cappelli Spaghetti and stir straight away so they do not stick. Cook them 1-2 minutes less than the time on the packet: the pasta should be very al dente, because it will finish cooking in the pan.
Making the Pecorino Cream
While the pasta cooks, make the cream. Put the grated pecorino romano in a metal or ceramic bowl (not plastic). Take 2-3 tablespoons of boiling cooking water from the pasta pot and pour it in a thin stream over the pecorino, stirring energetically with a fork or a small whisk. Keep adding cooking water, one spoonful at a time, until you have a smooth, lump-free cream with the consistency of pouring cream. Stir most of the toasted pepper into the cream (keeping a little back to finish).
Tossing and Serving
Drain the spaghetti straight into the pan, still warm but with the heat off, without water. Pour the pecorino cream over the pasta at once and toss energetically for , using tongs or two forks. If the cream is too thick, add a little hot cooking water, one spoonful at a time, until you have a creamy sauce that wraps every strand perfectly. Do not turn the heat on while you toss: the residual warmth is enough. Serve at once on warm plates, finishing with the remaining toasted pepper and, if you like, a last dusting of grated pecorino.
Wine Pairing for Cacio e Pepe
Cacio e pepe is a dish of only two forces, both of them extreme: the salt of the pecorino romano and the bite of the black pepper. Salt dries the mouth and makes any tannin seem harder; pepper catches fire on alcohol. The best answer is not an important red, it is something that brings acidity and bubbles.
The Top Choice: Metodo Classico Sparkling
Durlì Durello Brut Metodo Classico — Dama del Rovere — Durella is the most acidic grape in the Veneto, and in the metodo classico it becomes a taut, citrusy sparkling wine with the bread crust the yeasts give it. That is exactly what is needed: the acidity dissolves the creaminess of the pecorino, the bubble cleans the salt from the palate and the yeasty note binds with the pasta. A red here would be a stretch. Serve at 8 °C in a wide glass.
Red Wine as an Alternative
Pinot Nero Veneto I.G.T. — Italo Cescon — If a red at the table is obligatory, then it must be the lightest and least tannic we have: Pinot Nero has silky tannin, lively acidity and a fine red fruit that does not conflict with the pepper. Serve it cool, at 14 °C, so the perception of alcohol does not rise.
Want to know more about the grape? our guide to Veneto Pinot Nero
Craft Beer as an Alternative
Arrogant APL Beer — American Pale Ale — Here the bitterness of the hops works in our favour: pepper is pungent but not hot the way chilli is, and the citrus resin of the APA meets it rather than amplifying it. The medium body and firm carbonation do the rest against the creaminess of the pecorino. Serve at 6-8 °C.
Want to know more about the style? hoppy and speciality beers
Variations on Cacio e Pepe
- With different peppers: Try pink pepper (more floral), green pepper (less hot) or Sichuan pepper (with a citrus note) for interesting aromatic variations.
- Cacio, pepe e limone: Add the grated zest of an unwaxed lemon as you toss, for a fresh citrus note.
- With crisp pancetta: For a richer version, add 80 g of diced pancetta, browned until crisp, along with the pepper.
- A mix of cheeses: Use half pecorino and half parmigiano for a gentler, less salty cream.
- With black truffle: Finish the dish with shavings of black truffle from the Grappa area for a gourmet experience.
Frequently Asked Questions about Cacio e Pepe
Why does my pecorino cream turn to paste instead of going creamy?
The cooking water was probably not hot enough, or you added it all at once. The secret is to use water at a fierce boil and add it in a thin stream, one spoonful at a time, stirring energetically after each addition. Make sure, too, that the pecorino is finely grated (not in flakes) and use a metal or ceramic bowl that holds the heat.
Can I use parmigiano instead of pecorino?
The dish is called Cacio e Pepe precisely because it calls for the Roman «cacio», that is pecorino. Parmigiano has a different flavour, less sharp and salty, and behaves differently in the emulsion. If you really must replace it, use at least half pecorino and half parmigiano — but know that it will not be the authentic dish.
Why use wholewheat spaghetti instead of ordinary pasta?
Wholewheat spaghetti, especially those made from Senatore Cappelli wheat, have a more complex and intense flavour, with cereal and nutty notes that marry beautifully with the strength of the pecorino. The rough surface of bronze-drawn wholewheat pasta also holds the cheese cream better. Nutritionally, they offer more fibre, vitamins and minerals.
Can I make Cacio e Pepe in advance?
Absolutely not! Cacio e Pepe must be made and eaten straight away. Once it meets the hot pasta, the pecorino cream begins to set quickly. Wait even five minutes and you will have dry pasta and cheese that has seized. Make it only when everyone is ready to sit down.
What is the difference between pecorino romano and pecorino sardo?
Pecorino romano PDO is made exclusively in Lazio, in Sardinia and in the province of Grosseto, from whole sheep's milk. It is aged for a minimum of 8 months (though often 12-16), has an intensely salty, sharp flavour and a hard texture. Pecorino sardo can be mild (20-60 days of ageing) or mature (over 6 months), but is generally less salty and less sharp than the Roman. For an authentic Cacio e Pepe, only romano PDO guarantees the right result.
